OK, so you went out to Harbor Freight, or some other popular store and got yourself a solar kit. You hooked it all up like the instructions told you to. You're ready to start harvesting enough power to free your family from the power companies, or at least keep a battery charged, right? Sadly, no. Why? You have the inverter hooked up, the sun is shining, the charge controller says you're harvesting, so what could possibly be wrong? So much, where do I start? I don't want to overwhelm you with technical crap, so where can I start that you won't be overwhelmed, and yet still get something useful out of my blathering.
I think I should start out by saying that I have a hostile beef with the people who designed these systems and those who sell them. Both are perpetrating a massive fraud and charge out the nose to teach you a very expensive lesson. I used a couple of these systems, years ago now, and I resent the cost behind the lessons. Mostly, I think, because they are taking advantage of ignorance, laziness (maybe I don't mind that one so much), and people who don't think they can afford to build a good system. I actually do still have one of these panels left. I use it to keep Rob charged, while he's idle. The idea is that these systems are supposed to deliver 4 amps of power, and that you will be able to use the inverter or direct power to run appliances, gadgets, or whatever in the event of a power outage. They even blatantly tell you that these systems can be used at the cabin or to free you from the power company, or keep your backup systems going. It's all a lie. There is a lot to understand, and I don't know if I can actually explain it all in one article.
Let's start with the panels. These panels are called "amorphic". They are touted as the "ideal" panel because the silicon is deposited directly on the glass via silk screen. From a manufacturing point of view that's convenient. The problems start there. From a power per square inch point of view, they are lousy. The makers claim they will produce better in low light situations. Nope. They are supposed to have a diode built in to keep the power going the right way. Some do, but those that I found were not of the right size. Then there is the wire, undersized. Then the connectors, a toy car / trailer connector, work with them for any amount of time and you will go nuts, fry equipment, and probably leave solar forever. The panels are rated under "perfect sun", which is not even close to reality. I never saw these panels reach more than .75 amps. I saw that one time on one panel (1 out of 6) over a years time. These panels averaged only .25 - .4 amps, under "ideal" conditions. Surely, over a years time I should have had "ideal" conditions at least once.
What about the battery? It is usually a SLA (sealed lead-acid) which is OK, but it is usually only 10 to 20 amp hours. What's wrong with that? Nothing in and of itself. I use one to recharge devices and run my speakers. It's my last lead-acid battery, but that's another discussion. I don't think I should bog down with this right now because it's a very complicated topic. What can you do with the battery? Not much. It just depends on what you are doing. In technical BS you should be able to run a 20amp load for 1 hour or a 1 amp load for 20 hours. In reality that is not what happens. What about the recharge? They claim that you are getting 4 amps of power and that your battery will recharge in only a couple of hours. That is so flawed. The battery will only recharge at a rate of about 1/2 an amp per hour (the maximum rate is set by the internal makeup of the battery and other things). If you use the battery with a 1/2 amp load, you would be able to use the battery at a rate of 1 hour for every recharge hour (conditions matter). What is a half amp load? A solar water pump, some speakers, not much else. It's complicated and best left at that, I think.
What about the inverter that comes with the kit? Where do I stop laughing? It's usually a 150 to 200 watt inverter. Sounds really impressive doesn't it? First, you need to understand that the inverter converts DC power (direct current) from the battery or panels into AC (alternating current). The second thing you need to understand is that, because of this that and every other thing, it takes about 5 AC amps to do the work of 1 DC amp. That means your battery will drain very quickly. What can you do with this inverter? Run a light bulb for about an hour, maybe. You might be able to run a laptop for about 15 minutes. It all depends. I was able to run a 150 watt bulb for about 2 hours, or watch TV for about half an hour, being very careful so I wouldn't hurt my battery.
What about the charge controller. That's the last important part. You will notice that most of the controllers let you put the power into the battery, but not get it back out safely (for you or the battery) or conveniently. Not totally junk, perhaps, but darn near. I still have, and use, a couple of these sometimes. If you know how, they can still be useful. The problem is, is that these systems are supposed to be easy for beginners to set up and use. Most beginners don't have the knowledge or experience to get the power out of the battery safely.
What about the cost? I paid $400 each for two 3 panel kits. Was it worth it? NO! I have been building and developing my own panels since then and I don't think I have yet to spend $800. The solar door for example (details upcoming eventually), has a potential of 9 amps, and the panel parts cost about $150, maybe. So I really got burned cost wise. Experience wise, I have to be a little more generous. It got me off my butt to build a better system and figure out real costs. Of course, since I've been working in solar / alternative energy, for so long, I would have had to get a kit just to check it out anyway. So I guess, there was some good with the bad, and I came out ahead.